Andalucía 2024 - Cazorla

Cazorla took my breath away.  Located in the foothills of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas National Park, it’s pretty to say the least.  The SCSLV National Park is the largest protected natural space in Spain, believe it or not.  No wonder visitors flock here to enjoy hiking, mountain biking, abseiling, in fact any adventure sport you can imagine!

Numerous rivers and streams spring from this park and many endemic species such as the bearded vulture make this place their home.  The latter  almost disappeared from the skies in 1986 because of illegal wildlife poisoning and human disturbance of the nesting areas.  Now after a successful captive-bred releasing program, bearded vultures have reappeared in the skies above Cazorla.   They are truly majestic, soaring gracefully whilst scouring the mountain side for prey.  I saw many of them high in the sky and consequently hard to photograph!  Could only manage very poor shots with my iPhone.

I only had one full day here so made the most of it by spending my entire day hiking the surrounding hills of the village.    In the shade of the Pena de Los Halcones (hawks), Cazorla looks out over olive grove clad plains and I was constantly blown away by the jaw-dropping views from the mountainsides.

I hiked up to the Castillo de la Yedra and then on via winding and steep gravelly tracks to the Castillo de las Cinco Esquinas (5 corners).  Once I’d clambered up to this castle, I was met by a powerful stench of poo, courtesy of  the local mountain goats.  Droppings everywhere, especially inside the remaining ruin of the castle.  I decided to mark my territory here too as I was pretty desperate after the long steep hike.  Luckily only the hawks and vultures above bore witness ;)

Once back at Cazorla after an incredibly steep clamber down, I headed towards La Iruela village on the opposite side, just adjacent to Cazorla.  It’s home to the ruins of an 11th century Moorish and later Templar Fortress, perched precariously on a rocky base.  I spent a good hour in this village, wandering the narrow streets and admiring the pretty, white-washed dwellings and the fortress.  

It was steaming hot by now, easily 34 degrees, as I made my way along the road above Cazorla to the Ermita de la Virgen de la Cabeza.  This hermitage offers stupendous views down to Cazorla and is nestled against a backdrop of limestone and pine trees.  Very much worth the slog up a very steep access drive in the stinking heat!  The Virgen de la Cabeza is the patron saint of Cazorla apparently.  Sadly it was all closed up so I couldn’t see the interior.

I returned to Cazorla via the gorgeous Rio Cazorla which has an excellent walking path right alongside it.  I passed by numerous small waterfalls and headed back to this location early the next morning to take photos with the big camera.

My preferred location for meals, vino, tapas and people watching became the Cazorla village square.  A microcosm of village life and what struck me here, just as every other town I visited, was how well-dressed the locals were.  Jaunty hats, smart shirts, pretty dresses.  That, and the obvious devoted care they take of their home town’s municipal buildings and precious heritage.