Andalucía 2024 - Cabo de Gata

If you love uncrowded beaches and dramatic desert landscapes, best to head to the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Nijar to the east of Almeria.  Dramatic cliffs descend steeply to the Mediterranean and behind the cliffs, stark ochre/red semidesert terrain.  Ideal for exploring on foot or by gravel/mountain bike.  

It’s hard to describe this rather eerie landscape.  The bizarre rock formations and the many abandoned dwellings and mines add an edgy feel to the place. 

Plenty of dirt roads and tracks follow the coastline from San Miguel de Cabo de Gata to Agua Amarga.  The entire length (50km) can be walked in about 3 days but beware, there is little shade so best avoided in summer.  Autumn is apparently best when the sea is warm.

I caught the local bus from Almeria to San Jose and quickly headed out of this very pleasant seaside village towards Playa de los Genoveses.  A half moon shaped bay with plenty of nudist sunworshippers soaking up the rays. The Genoese navy landed here in 1147 to help the Christian attack on Almeria.  

A little further up is the pristine Playa de Monsul where the free-standing rock starred in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.  Sadly I didn’t have time to walk that far but I certainly plan to return to walk the entire stretch before I bite the dust! 

Despite the blistering hot mid day temps (35 degrees), I climbed up the Morron de los Genoveses with a few other hikers.  We enjoyed stupendous 360 degree views across the bay, the Med and inland.  Thankfully a gentle sea breeze helped cool us.  

The descent was pretty hazardous with loose gravel and rock to contend with.  Once I’d gingerly made my way down, I longed for a swim but knew I’d run out of time.  Back at San Jose, I quickly found a great sea front taberna and sank an icy cold beer and tapas.

San Jose is most definitely worth staying at for a few days to take in such dramatic scenery on foot or on wheels.