Andalucia, May 2023 - Granada

Next stop on my two-week trip was Granada.  I simply couldn’t wait to see if it lived up to my expectations.  Well.  It certainly did - despite the rather cool temperatures and overcast skies, not to mention half a day of rain.   

My goodness, what a wonderful experience Granada is.  I wished I could have stayed longer.  A marvelous blend of serene Islamic art, Arab-flavoured streets, monumental churches, not to mention great tapas bars.

Granada’s location at the foot of the Sierra Nevada is superb and from my hotel room, I could see the snowcapped mountains in the distance.  

My first day was exploratory as I wandered the back streets of Albayzin and Centro.  You need to be fit to truly explore the Abayzin as it sprawls up steep slopes.  The winding streets are bracketed by narrow dwellings adorned with beautiful flower-filled window displays.

I was keen to visit more Arab Baths after my experience in Cordoba.  The Banos Arabes El Banuelo did not disappoint.  Located by the river, this 11th century bath house is extremely well-preserved.  The bare bricked rooms feature columns, capitals and marble-tiled floors.

I booked my entry ticket to the Alhambra online with help from the helpful ladies at the tourist information office.    I’d heard the crowds would be unbearable but at 10am it was still relatively peaceful apart from about 20 selfie-seeking young and middle-aged humans.  I’d read that camera’s might not be permitted in the Alhambra so after much deliberation, I decided not to take my Canon DSLR, just my iPhone.  A mistake as I later saw plenty of visitors taking images with larger cameras inside the Alhambra.  O well.  Any camera is better than no camera at all!  

The Generalife gardens were a tranquil paradise with fabulous views across to the main Alhambra site.  You then stand in a long queue, awaiting your entry slot to the interior buildings of the Alhambra.  Before entry, I sat on the walls with a glass of Rioja and pan con tomate, my all-time favorite breakfast snack.

On my final day I walked to the Sacromonte, Granada’s historic gitano (Roma) neighbourhood.  A good hour’s climbing walk towards the foothills of the Sierra Nevada.  It was overcast but mild.  Along the way I past many cave dwellings - carved out in the mountain side.  Incredible - some of them dating back to the 14th century.  My destination was the Abadia de Sacromonte, a beautiful abbey high up on a hill with stupendous views back down towards Granada and the Alhambra.  The abbey is pretty unique with its catacombs and underground cave chapels.  

After my visit, I read that it is considered unsafe for lone women to wander around the uninhabited parts of the area, day or night.  But I never felt in any danger and to be honest I kept to the main road.